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AkwaTips Group

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Franz 5.3.1 Crack

Finally, in an ideal world, you wouldn't need to use gloves at all, because you would have no calluses. As you may have noticed from a previous post, my left palm hurts, and I experience a similar sensation on the web of the middle finger of my right hand. To compensate, I place my right hand in the crack, sometimes also on a small edge, and use my left hand in the following manner: The tip of the ring finger presses against the cliff, creating a slight bend. I press my middle finger against the rock in such a way as to maximize grip on the sharpest edge of the crack, and then place the tip of the index finger in the crack that follows. I raise my hand so that my palm is horizontal, and then use my other hand to brace the rock behind me. At the same time, I use the pads of my thumb and forefinger to pull on my other hand so that it becomes tight and compresses the crack to eliminate the bare spots. A little movement helps, as I say, and it allows for comfortable repetitive movement. This technique, along with the friction provided by the friction points of my fingers, keeps the novices from bashing their hands on the wall.

Franz 5.3.1 Crack

These bolts were fixed with cam hooks, and although I prefer to use hex wrenches when I can get them, I know many climbers who fall back on the cam hooks. After a bit of frustration, though, I've started using them again. If you are a beginner, you may wish to use them, too; they may not work in a new crack, but they usually work in an old one. No matter how good your technique may be, you must use the method that works for you. The cams don't get in the way; they only make the process easier. I've also found that the cams don't damage the rock, and they provide two extra holds. My technique is to get a good grip, then screw in the cam, then raise my hand to compress the wall, all the while holding the cam with my other hand.


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